Is it really possible for top designers to keep it fresh every season? Can the collections continue to top previous ones? Can design integrity remain consistent throughout the seasons?
In the case of India’s Sabysachi Mukherjee- this style observer says YES to all three!
The Bengali native, created a fall/winter 2011 collection that was profoundly elegant and intelligent. A difficult combination to be sure! He once again, paid homage to Bengali fashion history- but in a totally fresh way. This is clearly why he has become India’s most sought after designer! He understands linkages between the past and present in his designs. Without hesitation I would call him the original haute couture hipster of Indian fashion.
Reinvented once again, the collection showed color-blocking, florals and zardozi in unexpected ways. Organized in family groupings, the show began subdued and softly with cotton harem pants, vests and zardozi embroidery. Muted floral saris were then introduced. Light and delicate the sari’s emerged in a palette of beiges, whites, blushes, and oranges. Gauchos, wide-legged pleated pants and full jodhpurs were paired with bright silk shawls. His take on the traditional suit again surprised- a silhouette more reminiscent of a dress from the 1950’s: fitted long-sleeved bodices, full skirts and waist-hugging belts, but clearly extremely flattering. Male models sported floral churidars with long brocade jackets and the show was complete with Sabyasachi’s signature velvets- this time in drapey salwars, shawls, and the half pallu of tissue saris- all beautifully embroidered.
“Creativity has died and nothing new is coming up in the market. The main aim of designers is to lure consumers at the stake of creativity,” Mukherjee explains.
This is clearly not HIS aim- as critics worldwide (including myself) applaud his bold departure from Bollywood bling and copycatting. A class-act and forever paying attention to the ART, Sabyasachi has once again re-affirmed his position at the top!
Have a look below!